How can Artisan Food producers grow their businesses?

 

Last week there was a lot of comment on the whole supplier/Superquinn issue, and how a lot of artisan and local suppliers were going to be left up the creek waiting to be paid. Well, that triggered a 3-way discussion on Twitter among myself, Helen Carroll and Cliona Lynch on the broader topic of how difficult it is for small artisan producers to develop their businesses in a manageable way, due to the dearth of small food shops, proper delicatessens and other quality food outlets. What options are there out there as possible distribution points for really good products?

 

At this stage in Ireland, we are left with largely foreign owned supermarkets, many so-called convenience stores, a smattering of interesting food shops, alongside some farmers markets (many of which cater to the food grazers out for an afternoon's entertainment, rather than providing a viable alternative to the supermarket shopping expedition). Word has it that many farmers markets are finding it a struggle to maintain viability, and from my own experience of setting one up and running it for the past 18 months, it requires huge commitment and effort from me as the market operator and from all the stallholders who are at our market every Saturday.

 

The approach of the supermarkets appears to be a race to the bottom on price, with not a whole lot of concern for quality, and therefore when quality artisan producers look to put their noses above the parapet of the big, scary, supermarket world, then they immediately have to take a hit on price (correct me if I am wrong on that one!). Then, if the producer is 'lucky' enough to get a place on the shelves, they have to up their production capacity considerably (I am guessing here!), thus making them very vulnerable to a cash-flow crisis if they dont get paid on time... VERY SCARY WORLD...

 

So, what can all those emerging producers do? It is really difficult to see any short-term solutions emerging. Some restaurants are really starting to buy local, which is great. Some companies such as Sheridans are putting some of the pieces in place such as aggregating produce from around the country (although that does add to the cost base of course); then there is a slow emergence of neighbourhood shops which really do care about both the quality of the fresh food and the search for great value-add quality store-cupboard produce (such as Lilliput Stores in Arbour Hill, or Country Choice in Nenagh). Is there scope for more butchers to do what James Whelan in Tipperary is doing? Or for independent off-licences to complement their wine sales with good quality food (like Finian Sweeney in Glasnevin)... or the LocalMarkets.ie initiative in Cork.

 

However, all of this good work does need to be supported in some way – after all, if our small producers have no way of bridging the gap between direct selling from their farm or at their local Farmers Market, and a long-term business capable of supporting them and their families - without huge risk to their fledgling businesses, then all the talk of a Food Island, and Food Tourism etc will remain just that – TALK...

 

Are things different where you are? Perhaps Dublin and the Greater Dublin Area are just at an earlier stage than elsewhere in the country? Are there developments happening in your town or county that could offer a basis for developing artisan businesses to be more financially rewarding for food entrepreneurs? Please lets continue a debate on this – it really is important...